Earlier than I thought I managed to finish the jacket. No pictures on me yet, lack of good light.
My dressform is a smaller than me, so it has more pleats than when I wear it.
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I'm not satisfied, I think the fit is not that bad (I'll show you later this weekend) but it has to do with the combination of fabric and interfacing that is not quite right, and it certainly has to do with the "stitch-and-flip" method of lining. I've decided now that this is just no method for me. I miss the ability of really pressing out seams, of changing a bit while sewing.
Setting in the sleeves was not easy, because I had to do that with the lining too. This because one of the seams of the back ended in the sleeve opening. I finished with bias lining fabric.
The notched collar is made in the way that Claire Shaeffer describes in her book "High fashion sewing secrets". This is a great book, that I highly recommend if you want to explore some special techniques.
All in all I don't think I gained time by using this lining method. I promised myself to sew this jacket again, but I will use a more traditional technique in sewing. I think I'll try bagging a lining on my next jacket, a technique that is described in the Sandra Betzina book "Power sewing" (also very helpful) and is described online too, but which I've never tried.
Anyone any other recommendations for lining techniques?
Sigrid, I want to thank you for this, on several levels.
ReplyDeleteI've been watching with interest as you've constructed this, and truly have tried to keep an open mind re the "stitch and flip" lining method.
I'm sorry you're not finding great compatibility between your interfacing and your fabric. What do you think is the issue?
And I find it interesting that you're liking the pattern enough to make it again. That says a lot. I love the line drawing of the pattern.
I look forward to seeing it on you. I think the lines will be more evident on you than hanging on the form.
Also, I wanted to thank you for posting the directions for the sleeve openings. Interesting - and why on earth would they print different directions for two alike sleeves in the same time frame? Weird.
I have used Cecelia Podolak's method of bagging a lining. Good to get the feedback on the stitch and flip. At least now I know I am not missing anything. Looking forward to seeing the jacket on you - very cute lining too :)
ReplyDeleteSigrid,
ReplyDeleteI really enjoy your blog. Your garments really inspire me! I haven't made a jacket in a long time, but I think that bagging a jacket is likely to be a better technique than stitch and flip. I haven't made a jacket in a while, but the last one was bagged.
I think there's instruction on Fashion-incubator as well.
Yes, me too, I want to see this jacket on you. I think you will like bagging a jacket....
ReplyDeleteI love that hint of pink in your lining. I learned the bagging method years ago and, now that I think about it, not only do I use it all the time, I don't think I've even made an unlined jacket since!
ReplyDeleteI too use Cecilia Podolaks method of bagging a jacket. It's in her book for Taunton press's easy series. With this method it is necessary to finish the last part of the front facing and then hand sew it down. When I made my leather jacket I used Palmer Pletsch's method from their tailoring book because with their method you don't hand sew that same section of the facing. I don't see the appeal of the stitch and flip. I like to be able to fine tune and that isn't possible in the stitch and flip.
ReplyDeleteI used a similar method for my last vest and I was also disappointed on how tweaking was just about impossible. I don't have a great recommendation, but I always love to see your projects and get your insight.
ReplyDeleteI'm looking forward to seeing this jacket on you, since I really love it's stylelines. For years I've been using a "mix method" for lining my jackets, which is stitching the lining by machine along the facings and handstitching it to the hem/vents of the jacket. I'm always open minded to try new techniques, though. Have you seen Kathleen's method yet (Fashion Incubator blog)? I've been sewing the hem/facing/lining corner per her instructions with great results. Laura (from Laura's Sewing Room blog) uses Kathleen's method for bagging the lining with very good results too
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