Tuesday, June 14, 2016

My favorite type of garment to sew

Jackets are the type of garment I love to sew most. By far. I love the whole process of planning, cutting, interfacing and construction. In general it’s a time consuming process, but cut in several stages it’s very manageable.

The inspiration for my next jacket was one I saw in a television broadcast. I tried to find a picture but could not find it. It is a jacket with V-neckline, 3/4 length sleeves, a zipper center front and also the pockets will have a zipper. In the category jackets it’s relatively easy (compared to a notched collar for example)

The first step was to draft the pattern. I based the pattern on the jacket I made last year and made a quick muslin of the body because I wanted to be sure the V was drafted correctly. With a deeper V-neckline the pattern has to be adjusted to make sure there is no gaping.

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No need to be worried, the fit is good. I didn’t muslin the sleeves, I know they are ok because they are exactly the same as in the other jacket. Only difference is the 3/4 length on this summer jacket.

A detail shot of the fabric used.

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Front pieces have been assembled. I’m waiting for the zippers to arrive, then I can construct the pockets.

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A peek on the wrong side. All pieces for the body were interfaced with a light weight interfacing. The upper part of the back is interfaced with a more heavy weight interfacing.

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The front has a so called shoulder placket. This is made in two layers, as instructed by Alison Smith in her Craftsy class Structure & Shape. A course (and the total series) I heartily recommend when you’re interested in jacket construction.

The first layer is hair canvas, cut on the bias.

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This is attached with fusible interfacing which extends at the shoulder and armhole. In this way the canvas is attached, but still moving freely at the bottom.

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Next step is a strip of interfacing at the edge.

Do you like to read this detailed information? In the discussion about blogging versus instagram/facebook etc. that is going on now I’m definitely in the “I keep with blogging” camp, having neither an instagram or facebook account, so I don’t even know what I’m missing.
I’m wondering though whether it’s still interesting to read the detailed posts about construction. Would you prefer to only see the finished garment?

33 comments:

  1. I very much prefer to see the details of construction. It is the details, much more than just finished garment photos, which inspire me and encourage me in my own sewing.

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  2. Details! I love your blog. You make beautiful garments and we are lucky to have you share with us!

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  3. Details please! I really love construction posts. It's very informative to read about the choices you make and your approach regarding fit issues. Jackets are my favourites too and I'm working my way through Alison's classes. I was hoping to do a one day course on structure at Meestercouperopleiding in Amsterdam but they didn't have enough applications. Maybe it's for the best, I enjoy doing the tailoring classes at my own pace.

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  4. Thank you for sharing the details. I haven't made a jacket yet, but this type of information is really informative and inspiring.

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  5. Details, details, details - as many as you have time for. Love your blog, with its great peek into the guts of fine sewing. I'm not on Instagram, etc., so I follow you and other bloggers with great interest and appreciation.

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  6. I love to see the detailed instructions (if you have the time) as you learn so much. This jacket looks great so far. Love the fabric.

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  7. I really enjoy and appreciate all your blog posts Sigrid, the details are so helpful and the context for your beautifully sewn finished garments. Thanks for sharing this process.

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  8. I love to read how to make a garment and have been slowly unsubbing from blogs that just show finished garments.

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  9. I love following along with the construction process, it's the journey that makes it interesting. I will also stick with blogging, yet keeping parallel Instagram and Facebook accounts. Looking forward to seeing your progress on this jacket!

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  10. I love following along with the construction process, it's the journey that makes it interesting. I will also stick with blogging, yet keeping parallel Instagram and Facebook accounts. Looking forward to seeing your progress on this jacket!

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  11. The details!! The process is very interesting. Looking forward to seeing your jacket when it's done as well!

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  12. The details!! The process is very interesting. Looking forward to seeing your jacket when it's done as well!

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  13. I much prefer the detailed blog posts. Blogging is not dead. It is an idea format for deeper and multi-media conversations.

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  14. I love the detailed photos and descriptions, along with the reasons for your choices. Yes!

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  15. I definitely like the details. I find blogging to be much more informative then the others. You always have some great info to pass along. Thanks, Carol

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  16. Yes! I second what everyone else has said. I learn so much from a blog like this.

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  17. Definitely, keep doing what you are doing. I learn so much from you.

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  18. I love the details...I learn so much.

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  19. Yes, the sewing process is for me very useful . And waiting for the result conceals a small secret what will happen next .

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  20. I'm very interested in the details. Thank you so much for taking the time and sharing.

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  21. I don't have an Instagram account as well and am only a facebook "stalker" (I read others' posts one a week or so but barely post). Please don't stop blogging.

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  22. Please keep the detailed posts coming. I do not comment often, but I am inspired and learn so much. Thanks for the amount of work you put in to doing this.

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  23. I'm another who enjoys reading about and seeing the details. That's one reason why I'm subscribed to your blog. Keep it going for as long as you find it satisfying to do so!

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  24. I love sewing jackets and coats as well. Although they are time consuming, there is something special about seeing the project in progress.

    As for blogging vs. Instagram/Facebook, I like doing both (sans Facebook), though I am not active on FB at all. I like reading detailed posts as well as summaries as long as the summaries say something about sizing, fit, and construction. Hah. I guess that is quite a bit of detail. Interior shots are nice as well, but I understand that not everyone has the time to take photos. I always forget until it's time to write the blog post!

    I'm a regular reader, so I will support whatever you decide. =)

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  25. Jackets are also my favorite sew. Please continue blogging all the details. Karen

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  26. I enjoyed reading your details in this post. Did you mention what type of fabric you were using and did I miss it? I think it is very pretty.

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  27. I love reading construction details! I want to make a jacket It's been on my to-make-someday list for years. Reading your details helps increase my confidence that I can be successful in making it.

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  28. I'm making up the statistics (used by politicians to judge what the electorate wants) because I can't remember where I read them, but it's something like for every 1 letter they receive there are 100,000 others who feel the same way. Sooo, let me add to the chorus of LOVE and appreciate the details and advice. So what, you now have 280,000 of us loving these posts. Thanks!

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  29. Sigrid, these types of posts are why I love to blog and read blogs like yours. Give me all the details you can. You just taught me a really cool new way to attach the interfacing and I thank you for that.

    I love the great photos on IG and follow some really neat groups on FB but none come close to blogging where you can find substance and continuity, personalities and relationships. I am on hiatus now but every day I think about the day I will get back into as I do miss it. Just other priorities beckon at the moment.

    Please keep on blogging and with the process posts. Your detailed photos are inspiring. Thanks for being there.

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  30. I Love these Details. I want to learn something from the Blogs I read and that is not possible from finished garment Pictures. So please continue to Show the inside and explain the Details.

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  31. I'm enjoying sewing jackets at the moment too. you've encouraged me to post my scaffolding pictures for a traditionally tailored jacket. Can't wait to see this one finshed.

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  32. Are you kidding, Sigrid? Details, details and more details! Even if you've done one before it's still so lovely to see such great quality work in action.

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It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!