Two commenters have asked for a post on the fitting of this jacket. I’ll come back on that soon. For now it’s about construction.
I like to break up a complicated project as the jacket in manageable pieces. Sunday I didn’t have a lot of time and I added only the horizontal piping in the sleeve. Tonight was planned for inserting the sleeve zippers Shams did a great post on how she did it and I read it thoroughly before starting. It was quite similar to what I had in mind, but it doesn’t hurt to get it confirmed. I’m not sure yet whether I’ll add the gusset, sewing is done for tonight, I’ll decide tomorrow.
Originally I planned to to a vertical piping as well till the start of the zipper but have decided against it. I had pinned it and then thought it was giving too much bulk. I did not want to take the risk and omitted it. Don’t think it will matter in the end result.
The zippers I bought in NY too , they are Riri zippers. There is no choice in zippers where I live, it was such a jaw dropping experience when I first saw a shop (Pacific trim) full of all kind of zippers on my first visit a few years back. They are made to measure too, while you wait or shop around a little. Great service. I bought one very long zipper and they made it into one long and 4 short zippers.
Here’s the series of photos of my construction.
Measuring the length of the zipper, like Shams I decided I wanted the pull of the zipper not below the hemline of the sleeve.
Then I measured the width I wanted exposed and chalk-marked these measurments on a piece of silk organza.
Pinned the silk organza to the right side of the fabric at the seam line
Stitched NOT on the seamline and to the corner with very small stitches. The small stitches prevent any gaping/fraying of fabric in the corner. Not really an issue in this felted wool, but also the organza must not ravel.
Clipped and turned, than basted.
Under and upper sleeve stitched together.
And finally the zipper sewn into the ‘window’