Friday, June 28, 2013

Adapted muslin

I made a few changes to the muslin and it’s looking and feeling better in general, less snug. Not completely there yet, though I think I’m close.

 

The front: I took out the diagonal seam at bust height, but a bit too much above the bust. At the right side I’ve made a slit and added some fabric. That is no improvement.

I’ve indicated the welt pockets with strips of fabric, higher than I planned them earlier. With a marker I’ve indicated a little change in the diagonal seam, both at the bottom and at the top. How difficult to mark the garment when looking in a mirror!

Front of the sleeves is OK. I’ve put in the thin shoulder pads I intend to use.

The back: On the right side I’ve sewn the sleeve at the seamline of the pattern. On the left side I’ve changed the armscye and took out some space, more at the bottom of it, tapering to nothing to the shoulder point. Should I take out more or should I keep the extra ease for moving? Do you agree that the left side is better than the right?

The extra space added to the right, not improving.

This side looks better. Should I add more space at bust level?

I’ve added an extra centimeter to the sleeve length just to be sure, 2.5 cm instead of my normal 1.5 with Burda. The extra centimeter is too much.

8 comments:

Valerie said...

It's looking good Sigrid. The left armscye looks just right to me.

Vicki said...

Your left side looks better front and back. The right bust seems to have too much fabric in the wrong place yet still a bit tight across the bust. I think maybe some more out of the armscye at the bottom. But that depends on how you like your jackets to feel. The length is looking good too. I love jackets like this - fitted and with nice seaming :)

Faye Lewis said...

That muslin is going to lead to a great looking jacket.

Nancy K said...

The left back is better than the rt, but I think that the sleeve needs reshaping in the back. The seam needs to be closer to the crease of your arm I think. It certainly works if it is more comfortable like this.
I agree with Vicki, that there seems to be shaping in the wrong place for you. I do like the style. It's a very flattering style for you. The right length and proportions for you.

pdiddly said...

gosh I can see where you are going with this jacket and its going to look lovely

SarahLizSewStyle said...

I agree with Nancy about the left armscye

Elise Lin said...

That's going to be a great jacket! I agree with an fba. And also with what's been said about the left arm scye. You may want to add what you take to the sleeve though. How is it right now when you use your arms, is that ok? I can't see if what you took from the arm scye has already been added to the sleeve. So try to see how much you need to change (if any) the sleeves by moving your arms and if it's not getting restricted.

Jean said...

This is a great jacket style. The left side definitely looks to fit better.