Friday, March 8, 2013

Questions and answers

There were a few questions and comments on my last posts on bra making that I will try to answer here.

DaneMum asked whether the change to accomodate the cup circumference to the band/wire length for the cup is a large change. In this case it was only a matter of overlapping a centimeter of one cup piece. The other pieces were not changed. I always have a bit of extra space in the cup that I work into the band (like a sleeve head) because of the extra volume I need. I’ve always done it like that, and in Beverly Johnson’s book Bra making part two she confirmed that this is the right thing to do for my shape. The shape she calls an omega-shape (narrow chest, full cup).

Diana mentioned that it would be nice to have some of the lace in the back of the bra. I think she’s right and it would have been lovely. I like to do that on another bra, this one will remain as it is, but it’s a nice idea to have something attractive at the back too.

Amanda asked how the width of the band would refer to a longline bra. I must say that I don’t know. I’ve never owned or made a longline bra so can’t advise there.

Stuffandjunkorwhathever questioned the reason for the double topstitching of the wire channelling and observed that she had seen that mainly on lace bra’s, and only one row of topstitching on more functional bra’s. To me it'’s always been two rows of topstitching. The more luxurious bra’s indeed have that double topstitching and I think (but just an idea, not founded on any real information) that with two rows to enclose the wire it is more flat to you body. It’s a bit more difficult to make than one row of topstitching, but I do it all the time. Just love the look of it, but there’s no real reason against only one row of topstitching.

Bonny D remarked: “I wonder if the integrity of the garment would suffer at all if I could do the last under cup band zigzagging "after" I did the channelling top stitching, thereby allowing me to control where the zigzag goes. My purpose of this would be to avoid the zzzzz on the channeling. After all, it's not like that small bit needs to stretch. Previously, I would try just to avoid the channeling area with the zzzz.”
With the method I mentioned you topstitch the channelling last, but if you could do it differently. If the method suits you there is no “law” to say you have to do it otherwise. They way I describe is just one of the ways, and the way I prefer to do it.

Think these were the questions, if I’ve forgotten one let me know.

To finish a few photo’s from the panties I made to complete the set. Though not a very sexy model I do think these are different. I especially like the first one, with the triangular detail in the back.

 

Next post a tip for working with very stretchy lycra. Then I will be sewing a few other garments.

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