Sunday, September 2, 2012

Burda dress


This dress is one of the two patterns I traced from the August Burda issue. I considered changing the sleeves in regular sleeves without pleat, but thought it would be nice to just try something different and do something that I wouldn’t normally do.
I made it from a very stable knit that doesn’t  need any finishing of the seam allowances. Might be what in English is called a “ponte” knit, not sure about what that exactly is, just that it’s a bit more stable than a regular knit (correct me if I’m wrong).
It was a relatively easy dress to make, the pleats on the sleeve were the only part needing a bit of extra attention . As I used a dark charcoal grey, the lines of the pattern are not very visible in the pictures. I cut the center front on the fold, the pattern has a seam there. Further I made the top part 2 cm longer and decreased the skirt length with 5 centimeters. It was a dull length on me. Definitely longer than the picture above suggests.

The dress on me, the shoes are not for this dress, or should have a blue accent elsewhere too.
   
I traced the pattern in a size 40 at the shoulders, tapering to 42 at the front at bustlevel and adding extra width at hip height (no surprise).
After sewing it together I took out a bit from the waist, as the 42 was definitely too big there, which I knew it would, but wanted to see how the dress was on me.  Needed a bit more waist definition than it originally had for me.
And important: the pattern calls for a side zipper. I ommitted it and initially just sewed the side seam with larger stitches just to see whether the zip was really needed. I could get in and out of the dress pretty easily without a zipper, so the seam got stitched with regular stitches.  I also omitted the stetch lining that was in the instructions. I cut the center front piece twice and made a back lining piece.
I consider making this pattern again with 2 colors and changing the sleeve to a regular 3/4 length sleeve. I did like to try the sleeve as the pattern is, but are not too enthousiastic about it, not the shape of it and not the way the sleeve “hangs” in the garment. Also important is that it makes it more difficult to wear a jacket or cardigan over the dress.
 
It must be the season of dresses for me. I went shopping and bought two (!) dresses as well. I needed some new work clothes and decided that it was not wise to think that I could make them all . Quite a change in perspective. I also bought a jacket recently in a special shade of green, for which I today bought fabric to match. That will be a dress as well. With the couture dress still in my sewing queu too, that will be far more dresses than I’ve had in years.

16 comments:

LisaB said...

I'm so glad to see your review of this dress. The pattern caught my eye, but I wasn't sure what fabric I might use or if I would want to change the sleeves. Your information is very helpful to me!

I think the dress looks great on you. The changes you made are very complimentary.

pdiddly said...

This has come out beautiful. There were a few things in that issue that I liked. I can see what you mean about wearing a jacket with these sleeves, difficult I would think.

Look forward to seeing the real thing :-)

Karin said...

It's great to see this dress made up. I noticed this pattern too. I like how your version turned out and I think it looks pretty on you!

Valerie said...

Very elegant dress and it looks lovely on you. Is it designed for knits? (The issue isn't out here yet).

Nancy K said...

I love the sleeves but I do see your issues with them and you'd certainly have issues putting a narrow sleeved jacket or cardigan over this. All in all it's a successful project which looks good on you. I like the idea of color blocking the dress.

Mary Nanna said...

It's really beautiful on you - so inspiring. I like the sleeve although I understand its practical limitations - I guess your knit has good recovery so you don't have to worry about stretching it out without a zipper...

Vicki said...

Grey is such a versitile colour. I like the blue with it. Very nice

beurreblanc said...

This is a great dress. Did you raise the neckline ( is that what you mean by adding 2cm to the front)?
I love those blue shoes with the dress!
-sewingelle

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I'm so glad that you've come over to the dark side - the dress side! hehehe! I really like this dress and how you made it fit you. Keep the blue shoes and maybe add a blue necklace or scarf - you're very on trend!

Bunny said...

This looks lovely on you. I like the sleeve, very interesting cap treatment but can understand the difficulty under a cardigan or jacket.

AllisonC said...

Sigrid this looks fantastic on you. I understand what you are saying about the sleeves not working under a jacket but I really think they make for overall very flattering proportions.

gwensews said...

That's a pretty dress. I love pleated sleeves but they do pose a problem, as you said, wearing underneath a jacket. But as it, they are a nice detail.

Tia Dia said...

It's lovely, Sigrid! I really like the fit of this dress and the interesting bodice.

Jenn said...

That looks great. I love the idea of using a ponte knit. - I have my eye on that pattern too, just have to get through the peplum top first.

senaSews said...

Beautiful dress with nice style lines. IMO the sleeves look great on you. But i can see the problem how to wear a jacket or cardigan over it. Maybe this design work with a turtleneck or blouse underneath?

Audrey said...

The dress looks wonderful on you. I like the sleeves, but can see that they may be bulky under a jacket or sweater. Don't you just love the heavier knits? Easy to sew, firm enough to skim the body and not cling, and comfortable to wear. Your fabric does look a lot like what we call Ponte knit.