Friday, August 24, 2012
Last Tuesday I got my machine back and started working on the jeans. The extra width I cut into the sideseams was unnecessary, the little stretch of the denim fabric made quite a difference compared to the muslin. When trying the muslin, I was very surprised I had no back gaposis, like many had written about and which is always a problem with my figure in rtw as well. But when I tried on this just before the waistband was attached, there was too much extra space. So I ended up changing a bit in the back yoke.
The extra wrinkle above the knee disappeared when I had given the extra space in the sice seam, the upper part of the leg was too narrow for me. Perhaps I could have taken a bit of space at the upper thigh? Perhaps in another version.
I won’t add another PR review for this, there are so many reviews already and I’ve nothing new to add, it’s a great pattern. I followed the very good instructions for the most part, will offset the zipper a bit more next time (it’s a bit close to the center front) and have changed the pocket facing to go center front, like my rtw jeans, which is an easy change. I’ll show some pictures below after the detail pictures of the jeans.
Zipper from stash, not the right color. You won’t see this when wearing it. Also therefor I would like it to have a bit more overlap. The only thing missing is a button. Thought I had some silver colored jeans buttons, but all I had were brass colored ones.
Belt loops and front pocket. Next time I will add the little coin pocket as well. The topstitching on the side is as the instructions tell you. It’s the same as in my rtw jeans.
Front pocket construction
I cut the front pocket lining extending to center front. It would have been better to add an extra 0.5 centimeter. I often forget and am writing this down mostly for my own benefit
The front pocket facing is sewn on top of the lining (after I serged it first).
The front pocket facing is sewn to the front, then turned and topstitched (topstitching not in the picture).
The lining is placed on the wrong side of the front. The yellow arrows indicate where I would have wanted the extra 0.5 centimeter.
I sew pocket lining and facing together with a zigzag stitch. If you would like you could use an extra straigth stitch beside it for extra strength.
Then I serge the bottom of the lining and pocket that are treated as one now.
During construction the lining is attached in the facings of the zipper construction. On the side where the zipper is attached
off-center (the first part that you stitch) the extra width would have been helpful. Then I could have sewn the lining together with the first zipper tape. As it was I had to make a tack later on in the process. Not a great worry, but could have been better.
One side on the picture looks shorter than the other side at the center. this is due to the fact that part of the zipper facing on the right side is cut off before sewing the fly shield on. There is less fabric to cover the lining.
It was a nice experience to sew this pair of jeans. I might do it again, it was easier than I expected. And my machine behaved well, you need a machine that can tackle a lot of denim fabric layers.
For now there is a long list of other projects in the sewing queue though. A jacket muslin is made, two Burda patterns of the August issue are traced, the couture dress that needs to be fitted…. but the next thing to finish is something that is already halfway and I can almost make while sleeping: