Friday, May 21, 2010

Details

You’re being quite unanimous in your answers whether you like the posts on plans and details. I was thinking I might be repeating myself, i showed how I make a jacket earlier on, but it has been awhile. As to plans: I have a lot of plans, quite a few (coordinating!) fabrics that I want to sew some clothes from and techniques I want to try. I’ll do a post on my plans when my jacket is finished, but my experience is that most plans for a sequence of garments somehow are left somewhere in the middle.

More detail shots of the jacket then. I made single welt pockets and was inspired by the book Cool couture by Kenneth King (so envious of those of you who attended the PR weekend and had a chance to do some embellishment with his guidance). I used a combination of two types of pockets that he described.

Basically it comes down to  make sure the seam of the side of the welt is transferred to the back of the welt.  I’m not writing a complete tutorial (( do highly recommend buying the book) but this is what I did:

Cut the welt from silk organza, in a double layer, the foldline is on the straight of grain.
Re-drafted the welt pattern piece, so that there are angles of 45 degree that must match on the back of the welt.

The interfacing organze was edgestitched to the back of the welt, leaving a few stitches open at the corners. In this way I could pull the corners away when stitching th seam.

Stittched the seam of the welt.

Folded the welt over the organza interfacing

The back, do you notice the seam line that goes from the left upper corner in a diagonal line to the bottom?

Stitched the welt and pocket to the front of the garment.

After turning you can see how small the pocket opening is. Mr King says that in this way you won’t get any stretch on the welt and the pocket opening is practically invisible. The sides of the welt are sewn from the back through the front. I’ve done both pockets now and I love the result.

4 comments:

  1. I am a bit late to the poll but I love your construction and project detail. It helps me with my projects! Thank you because I know it is a lot of work to post so many details!

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  2. Good looking. There is a Judy Burlap article in Threads that shows this done the same way. Did you use a cross stitch on the back to secure it?

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  3. This is a really nice way to avoid bulk on the edges, bet it's a lot easier to topstitch it neatly as well. I have his book and have used the hidden lining pocket. I was just about to write a post on that because I'm curious if anyone else found the instruction missing a major part... It could just be me of course :))

    I love neat construction photos- yours are always excellent, another vote to keep em coming!

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  4. That does look so neat. I have Kenneth's book - must look it up.

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