Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Working on a coat

Does this happen to you? You have a pattern, a fabric, an idea and at once you leave all other projects and start on something else. This is what happened Monday evening to me. I was thinking about sewing a coat, the pattern that I have now for about two years (originally sent to me by Cidell in exchange for Knip mode). Then I remembered the very dark grey fabric I bought for a coat and there I was tracing the pattern, cutting, preparing etc. Forgetting the buttonholes of the jacket and the pants I was about to finish. I’m sure they will be done soon, but now I’m obsessed with this coat.

ETA the pattern: Vogue 8465

I took a big risk and did not make a muslin. Fit in the shoulder area is not the main issue here, and well, I wanted to go ahead. The fabric is a very good quality wool, but bought very cheap because the shop was closing down. Muslin fabric wouldn’t reflect the drape of this fabric so I took my chances: started with size 16 and tapered for extra width to 18 at hip level. I based this on the finished measurements on the pattern.

It’s a whole lot of collar, and because it’s not too close to the face I thought I could wear this well enough. Large collars directly to my neck and face are no good on me.

After two (long) evenings this is the result so far:

After sewing the upper front parts and back together I tried it on and took out a bit at center back, only at the neckline, as it was standing away a bit too much. There is too much space in the back now, but I’m only wearing a t-shirt underneath and the skirt part still has to be added.

The instructions tell you to interface the front parts of the body, but I thought that wouldn’t be enough to keep the weight of the collar. So I interfaced the back too, and for the front I used hair canvas. For attaching that without adding bulk to the side seams I used a technique described by Kenneth King in his book Cool Couture. I’ll write more on that in another post.

I agree with Lindsay, sewing a coat is not as difficult as you might think, though this is not a very difficult pattern (but labelling it as Easy seems not right to me, you have to pay very close attention to the cutting layout, as the parts are not symmetrical and some parts have to be cut with the right side down for the lining)

17 comments:

Anonymous said...

Oh Sigrid that is going to be beautiful - have you a suitable scarf to keep out the cold wind around your neck?
I'm sure it will work well for you as you have lady-like shoulders and a slim waist. Could you describe your wool fabric as it looks very lush.
Juliet, Thames Valley, UK

Eugenia said...

This coat is shaping up really nicely - I love that big collar! Can't wait to see it finished.

Renee said...

It looks like this is going to be a fabulous coat! I look forward to seeing the finished product. What is the pattern?

Gail said...

The coat is worthy of obsession.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

It is looking wonderful so far. This is such a stylish jacket!

JoanneM said...

I continue to look at this pattern and always walk away from it. I am petite and it seems to have so much "busy" going on. But I knew I would love it once I saw it made up. Great color and great style for you.Can't wait to see it finished!

Cindy said...

I have always admired this coat pattern. The neckline is very flattering.

Nancy K said...

I love the collar. I think it's going to be very chic on you.

katherine h said...

Sigrid, have you seen this post http://couturedetails.blogspot.com/2009/09/black-denim-jacket.html where the author uses a negative of the photo to show up the details of a black jacket. I don't know how to do this, but if anybody does, we would be able to see the details of your jacket.

Sue said...

Great coat! I have that pattern (or one similar) so I look forward to seeing how it goes.
Totally understand the need to start a new project before another is finished.

mochimo said...

It's a lot of a gorgeous collar!!! Very beautiful pattern. I'm sure you will soon have a new wonderful coat.

a little sewing on the side said...

Sigrid, that is looking smashing so far. I know exactly how it feels to jump onto a project before the others are finished. You have to honor the sewing mojo, and have fun.
I am thinking about sewing a coat, too. I am going to try the Jalie city coat that you made from denim a while ago. I made a muslin last weekend and it is a very flattering silhouette.

Vicki said...

Oh, the collar is sitting so nicely! ItIS going to be great. Any minor fitting issues won't be noticed with such a flattering collar.

gwensews said...

That is a great coat. I have the pattern. I'm anxious to see how yours turns out. I wonder if felted wool would work on this jacket?

The Slapdash Sewist said...

That is going to be lovely! I have a Vogue pattern similar to that one (maybe the same one? can't remember) and now you're making me want to pull it out!

Trudy Callan said...

What a fantastic coat design. I love collar and the shaping, very figure flattering. It is looking great so far.

Kat said...

This will be be a wonderful coat when finished! I love sewing coats and jackets. The fitting issues tend to be minimal and I can just concentrate on actual sewing. What more can one ask for? :)