But it has been on my mind now a couple of weeks, and started to make a bra that will not show the shoulder straps. That set is in my drawer for 4 weeks already! Suppose it says something about me, starting with the bra instead of the top. (I confess that lingerie making is addictive).
It is a Burda pattern, so no seam allowance, which I don't mind. For critical items like collars I always cut off the seam allowances from patterns that include them as working with the actual seamlines is much more accurate (personal opinion of course).
This is the way I work with most patterns that not include seam allowances:
I use tracing paper and a special tool, of which I don't know the English name.
On the photo you see a sheet of a much used tracing paper. One sheet lasts very long.
- Cut the pattern pieces (usually double), with the pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. If pattern piece must be cut from a single layer, it must be at the right side of the fabric.
- Trace the pattern piece with tracing paper under your fabric in a color that you can't see from the right side of the fabric, pattern pinned to the fabric. Mark darts and other important markings on the pattern.
- Remove the pattern paper
- Turn the two pieces of fabric. With slippy fabric or stripes (like my photo) you might like to use pins to keep the pieces together very accurately.
- Trace over the first tracing line
For collars, cufs etc. that will have a fusible interfacing, I cut out the exact pattern piece, and iron this between the traced lines. Very accurate and no extra bulk when turning the collar or cuff.
Hope this is helpful.